Growing up in Mexico, the question was never whether there would be salsa on the table. The question was: which one?

Salsa is what brings a dish together. It adds heat, freshness, tang, smokiness… sometimes all at once. A meal without salsa feels incomplete, and in Mexican homes there’s usually at least one sitting on the table or tucked away in the fridge ready to rescue any meal.

In my mother’s house there was always a salsa roja, a tomato-based red salsa that could be spicy or mild depending on the chilies used. The day the beans were cooked, we had to have Pico de Gallo or Salsa Bandera — a fresh chopped salsa perfect for tacos, spooning over beans or simply snacking with corn chips.

Pico de Gallo is probably the easiest salsa to make. All you need are tomatoes, onion, chilies, coriander, lime juice, salt and pepper. Fresh, simple and full of flavour.

One of my favourites is Salsa Molcajeteada, made in a molcajete — the Mexican version of a mortar and pestle carved from volcanic rock. Every kitchen I grew up around had one sitting proudly on the counter. The ingredients are roasted over charcoal or on a hot griddle, and all that char brings a beautiful smokiness and depth of flavour.

Then there’s Salsa Verde. A bit different from what I’ve seen called “salsa verde” in Australia, which often looks more like chimichurri to me. Mexican Salsa Verde is made with tomatillos, small green fruits wrapped in a papery husk that date back to the pre-Columbian era and are widely used in traditional Mexican cooking.

Tomatillos have a tangy flavour that works beautifully raw or cooked. I love Salsa Verde with tacos, quesadillas, scrambled eggs, enchiladas, tamales, chicken, pork… honestly, almost anything.

Salsas are so important in Mexico that sometimes you choose where to eat tacos depending on the salsas available. Every taquería needs a few good salsas on offer, otherwise people won’t come back.

What’s your favourite salsa?

Salsa Pico de Gallo

Also known as salsa fresca, salsa bandera or salsa cruda.

“Bandera” means flag, because this salsa carries the colours of the Mexican flag: green, white and red.

It’s made with chopped tomato, onion and serrano peppers, mixed with lime juice, coriander leaves, salt and pepper. Serrano peppers can be difficult to find in Australia, so jalapeños or even green Thai chilies work well too.

Ingredients

• 4 ripe tomatoes
• ½ white onion
• Juice of 1 lime
• 1–2 jalapeños, seeded and diced (adjust to taste)
• Handful of coriander leaves, chopped
• Salt and pepper

Instructions

Dice the tomatoes and onion. You can deseed the tomatoes if you prefer, but it’s optional.

Finely chop the chilies and combine everything in a bowl with the lime juice, coriander, salt and pepper.

Mix well and let it rest for about 15 minutes so the flavours can develop.

Enjoy with tacos, grilled meats or simply with corn chips.

Salsa Roja

Red salsa was a staple growing up. There was always a jar in the fridge ready to top any dish, transform into enchiladas or become the base for soups and Mexican rice.

This version is simple, comforting and easy to make.

Ingredients

• 1 kg ripe tomatoes
• 1 onion, peeled and quartered
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 chipotle in adobo, jalapeño or green chili
• Salt and pepper

Instructions

Cut the tomatoes into quarters and place them in a saucepan with a splash of water.

Add the onion, garlic and chili. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then simmer until the tomatoes are soft.

Blend until smooth using a stick blender. If using a regular blender, allow the mixture to cool slightly first to avoid burns.

Use this salsa to add flavour and spice to your meals, or as a base for soups, enchiladas and Mexican rice.

Salsa Verde

This tangy salsa works beautifully as a topping, dip or cooking sauce.

Ingredients

• 500 g tin tomatillos, drained
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled
• ¼ brown onion
• 3 jalapeños or green Thai chilies
• Handful coriander
• 1 tsp salt

Instructions

Place the chilies, onion and 1½ cloves of garlic in a small saucepan with a little water.

Cook until softened, then transfer to a food processor along with the reserved ½ clove garlic and salt.

Blend into a smooth paste.

Add the tomatillos and coriander, then pulse until you reach a chunky salsa consistency.

Taste and adjust the salt if needed.

Enjoy with tacos, quesadillas, eggs or tortilla chips.